Expert Guide to Planting an Olive Tree

There's something rather magical about olive trees in a British garden. Maybe it's the way their silvery leaves catch the light, or how they bring a touch of Mediterranean warmth to our sometimes grey climate. Whatever draws you to them, planting an olive tree is one of those garden decisions you won't regret - as long as you get the basics right from the start.

Growing olives in the UK has become increasingly popular, and for good reason. These hardy characters can handle our climate better than you might think, especially if you choose the right variety and give them the conditions they crave. While we might not rival Tuscany for olive oil production, a well-placed olive tree can thrive here, becoming a stunning focal point that gets better with age.

Let's be honest though - olive trees aren't miracle workers. They won't fruit reliably every year in our climate, and they definitely won't appreciate being stuck in a boggy corner of the garden. But with proper planting and care, you can grow a healthy, characterful tree that might even surprise you with olives in a good summer. The secret lies in understanding what makes these Mediterranean natives tick and adapting their needs to British conditions.

Getting the planting right sets your olive tree up for decades of growth. A rushed job now means problems later - poor drainage leads to root rot, bad positioning leaves them vulnerable to cold damage, and skimping on preparation often results in a tree that sulks rather than thrives. But don't worry, we will walk you through everything you need to know.

Choosing the Perfect Olive Tree for Your Garden

Not all olive varieties are created equal when it comes to British gardens. For our climate, you want tough cookies that can handle a proper frost. 'Arbequina' is a popular and our go-to recommendation - it's compact and actually produces olives fairly reliably in the UK. 'Cipressino' is another star performer, particularly good for smaller spaces as it grows quite upright. If you're after something with real presence, 'Picual' develops into a magnificent specimen, though it needs more space.

Size really does matter when picking your tree. That cute little olive in a 10-litre pot might look perfect now, but remember these trees can eventually reach 6-8 metres if left unpruned. For most gardens, starting with a tree that's 1.5-2 metres tall strikes the right balance - established enough to handle our weather but young enough to adapt to your garden. If you're planning on keeping it in a container permanently, go smaller and be prepared for regular pruning.

When you're shopping for olive trees, you'll spot both container-grown and field-grown options. Container-grown trees are brilliant for planting any time of year (weather permitting) as their roots are intact and ready to go. Field-grown specimens, often older and more characterful, are typically lifted in autumn or spring. They're usually better value for larger trees but need more careful handling and aftercare.

A healthy olive tree practically glows with vitality. Look for leaves that are properly silver-green on top and silvery-white underneath - yellowing or brown patches spell trouble. The trunk should be firm, not soft or weeping, and there should be plenty of healthy growth throughout the canopy. Avoid trees with lots of dead twigs or sparse foliage - they're already stressed and will struggle to establish.

Age brings character to olive trees, and older specimens can create instant impact. But here's the thing - younger trees (3-5 years) establish much faster and often overtake their older cousins within a few years. Unless you're after immediate mature presence, a younger tree often makes more sense. They're also considerably lighter on the wallet and easier to handle during planting.

Selecting and Preparing the Ideal Planting Location

Olive trees are proper sun worshippers. They need the sunniest spot you can offer - ideally south or west-facing with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. That corner by the shed that only gets morning sun? Not going to cut it. Think about where you'd want to sunbathe on a summer's day - that's where your olive wants to be. In shadier spots, they'll survive but grow leggy and won't develop that lovely dense, silvery canopy.

If there's one thing that'll kill an olive tree faster than anything else in the UK, it's waterlogged soil. These trees evolved on rocky Mediterranean hillsides where water drains away instantly. Heavy clay that stays soggy in winter is their worst nightmare. The ideal soil is free-draining and slightly alkaline - think chalky or sandy soils. If you're stuck with clay, don't despair - we’ll show you how to improve things dramatically.

While olives can handle coastal breezes, they really don't appreciate harsh, cold winds, especially from the north and east. A spot with some natural wind protection - perhaps near a wall or hedge - helps enormously. That said, they do need some air movement to prevent fungal problems, so don't tuck them into completely still corners. It's all about finding that sweet spot between shelter and ventilation.

Think big when considering space. A mature olive tree can spread 4-6 metres wide, though regular pruning keeps them much smaller. Allow at least 3 metres from buildings and other trees - their roots spread wide searching for water and nutrients. If you're planting multiple olives, space them 5-6 metres apart. For container growing, choose a pot at least 60cm diameter for long-term success.

Step-by-Step Olive Tree Planting Guide

Timing makes a real difference to planting success. Early autumn (September to October) is absolutely perfect - the soil's still warm, there's usually decent rainfall, and the tree has time to settle before winter. Spring (March to May) is your second-best option, especially for container-grown trees. Avoid planting in high summer unless you're prepared for serious watering duties, and never plant when frost threatens.

Now for the fun bit - digging! Your planting hole needs to be properly generous - at least three times the width of the root ball and about the same depth. For most trees, that's a hole about 1 metre across. Square holes are actually better than round ones (the corners help roots break out into surrounding soil), but don't lose sleep over it. The key is breaking up the soil well beyond where the roots currently are.

Before your tree goes anywhere near that hole, let's talk about drainage. If water sits in the hole for more than an hour after heavy rain, you need to improve things. Mix plenty of grit or coarse sand into the bottom - about a bucketful for an average hole. In really heavy clay, consider raising the planting area slightly or installing proper drainage. Your olive will thank you for the extra effort.

Handle the root ball like the precious thing it is. Water container-grown trees thoroughly an hour before planting. When you remove the pot, you might see roots circling the bottom - tease these out gently or they'll keep circling forever. For rootballed trees, leave the hessian on (it'll rot away) but cut any synthetic material. Position the tree so the point where roots meet trunk sits level with the surrounding soil - planting too deep is a common mistake.

Backfilling isn't about stuffing the original soil back in. Mix your excavated soil 50/50 with good compost and add a couple of handfuls of horticultural grit for drainage. Fill in layers, firming gently as you go - you want to eliminate air pockets without compacting the soil. Create a slight dish around the tree to help water reach the roots, then water thoroughly - I mean really soak it, at least 20 litres for a decent-sized tree.

Finish with a proper mulch layer, but here's the crucial bit - keep it away from the trunk. Create a doughnut of mulch 5-8cm deep, starting about 10cm from the trunk and extending to the edge of the planting area. Bark chips or gravel both work brilliantly. This keeps moisture in, weeds out, and looks rather smart too.

Essential Aftercare for Newly Planted Olive Trees

First-year watering is make-or-break for olive trees. They need consistent moisture while establishing, which seems odd for a drought-tolerant plant, but those new roots need encouragement to spread out. Water deeply once a week through the first growing season - about 15-20 litres each time, delivered slowly so it soaks in rather than running off. In hot spells, twice weekly might be needed. By year two, you can ease off considerably.

Olive trees aren't greedy feeders, but a little help goes a long way. In spring (April), give them a balanced general fertiliser - something like blood, fish and bone works brilliantly. Scatter a couple of handfuls around the root area and water well. Container olives need feeding monthly through the growing season with a liquid feed. Don't overdo it though - too much nitrogen creates soft growth that's vulnerable to frost.

Winter protection matters more in the first few years while your tree toughens up. Horticultural fleece is your friend when hard frost threatens - wrap the canopy loosely, allowing air circulation. For young trees, consider wrapping the trunk with hessian or fleece too. Potted olives can be moved to a sheltered spot or unheated greenhouse. After a few winters, most varieties cope fine with UK cold snaps, though a really harsh winter might cause some damage.

You'll know your olive is establishing well when you see fresh growth appearing, usually by late spring after planting. The leaves should look perky and properly coloured, and you might spot new shoots extending from branch tips. Don't panic if there's little growth in year one - olives often spend their first season growing roots rather than shoots. By year two, you should see more obvious progress.

Early pruning keeps your olive shapely from the start. In the first year, remove any dead or damaged branches but otherwise leave well alone. From year two, start shaping in late spring - aim for an open centre that lets light and air through. Remove any branches growing inward or crossing others. Don't be tempted to prune hard early on - little and often creates the best shape.

Keep an eye out for problems, though olives are generally trouble-free. Scale insects sometimes appear as brown bumps on stems - a winter wash sorts them out. Leaf drop can happen after stress (usually water-related), but trees normally recover. In very wet summers, watch for peacock spot disease - brown circles on leaves. Good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering helps prevent this.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Poor drainage remains the number one killer of UK olive trees. If you've inherited heavy clay or notice water pooling after rain, take action fast. Installing land drains might sound extreme, but it's worth it for valuable specimens. Alternatively, build raised beds at least 30cm high filled with free-draining soil mix. Some gardeners have great success planting olives on mounds - it looks natural and solves drainage brilliantly.

Cold damage shows up as brown or black leaves, split bark, or dieback of shoot tips. Don't rush to prune apparent dead wood in spring - olives often surprise you by sprouting from seemingly dead branches by early summer. Wait until you see where new growth appears, then tidy up. If the main trunk is damaged, olives usually regrow from the base - you'll need to select the strongest shoot and train it up as a replacement.

Leaf drop often panics new olive owners, but it's usually not serious. Olives naturally shed some older leaves, especially in spring as new growth appears. Heavy leaf drop might indicate stress - check watering (both over and under can cause problems), look for root damage, or consider if there's been a sudden temperature change. Unless all leaves drop at once, your tree will likely recover with proper care.

UK olive trees grow much slower than their Mediterranean cousins - expect 20-30cm annually once established, less in early years. Don't fret about slow growth; it creates denser, hardier wood better suited to our climate. Resist the urge to push growth with excess fertiliser - you'll get soft, frost-prone shoots. Patience pays off with olives.

Fruiting depends hugely on summer warmth and winter chill hours. Most UK olives fruit sporadically - perhaps every 3-4 years after good summers. Trees need to be at least 5 years old, and cross-pollination helps (though isn't essential). If you do get olives, harvest them green in October or leave until black and wrinkled for eating. Don't expect commercial quantities, but home-grown olives are rather special.

Thor's Trees Professional Olive Tree Services

Getting expert eyes on your planting site before you start can save years of problems. Our team assesses drainage, light levels, and microclimate factors you might miss. We'll tell you honestly if that spot you've got your heart set on will work, or suggest alternatives that'll give your olive the best chance. Sometimes a small adjustment - moving 2 metres left or raising the planting area slightly - makes all the difference.

For mature olives, our maintenance plans keep them looking magnificent year-round. This covers annual pruning to maintain size and shape, health checks for pests and diseases, and soil improvement where needed. We're particularly good at renovating neglected olives - amazing what proper care can achieve. Many "dying" olives we see are simply struggling with poor growing conditions.

Sometimes olives need moving - perhaps they've outgrown their space or building work demands it. Relocating established trees requires specialist knowledge and equipment, but it's perfectly possible with proper planning. The key is preparing the tree months in advance and choosing the right season. Most relocated olives barely miss a beat if handled correctly.

FAQ’s

Can I grow an olive tree in a pot permanently?

Absolutely! Olive trees do brilliantly in containers. Use a pot at least 60cm wide with drainage holes, mix soil-based compost with grit, and be ready to water and feed more regularly. You'll need to repot every 3-4 years and prune annually to manage size. Container olives are also easier to protect in winter.

How cold-hardy are olive trees in the UK?

Established olives handle UK winters well, tolerating down to -10°C. Young trees need protection for their first 2-3 winters while toughening up. Varieties like 'Arbequina' and 'Picual' are particularly hardy. Remember - wet cold is worse than dry cold, so good drainage really matters.

Will my olive tree actually produce olives?

In the UK, olives are a lovely bonus rather than guaranteed. Trees must be 5-7 years old and need warm summers followed by cool winters to fruit - expect olives maybe one year in three or four. South-facing spots in southern England do best, but grow them for their beauty first, olives second.

When should I prune my newly planted olive tree?

Leave pruning alone for the first year except for removing dead or damaged bits. From year two, prune in late spring (April-May) when new growth appears. Young trees need only light shaping - focus on creating an open centre and removing crossing branches. Save proper pruning for years 3-4 onwards.

Ready to Plant Your Perfect Olive Tree?

At Thor's Trees, we're passionate about helping olive trees thrive in British gardens. Our certified arborists understand exactly what these Mediterranean beauties need to flourish in our unique climate.

Whether you need advice on variety selection, professional planting services, or ongoing care for existing trees, we're here to help. Contact us to arrange a consultation.

Let's create your own slice of the Mediterranean, right here in your garden.